Tim Soar AW11 Him/She

During a day that saw me ricochet from Somerset House to the Royal Opera House and back again multiple times, the opportunity to stand still and admire was greatly appreciated. One such opportunity was afforded by Tim Soar's presentation in the Navy Board Rooms. Here, weary menswear folk gathered with a glass of champagne to gleefully toast the continued rise of the designer whilst admiring his collection of androgyny grounded in menswear.

For the last few seasons Soar has busied himself with examining and reinterpreting the true classics of menswear. Appropriating hits and remixing them to his own tune to much acclaim. He has ultimately produced collections which feel warm and familiar, those which have many overlapping memories and echoes from the past yet, at the same time still feel modern. Thankfully, this is a process that he continues for AW11. However, this time, he offers a carefully crafted concept of a functional wardrobe where many of the styles are available for women. Despite being grounded in menswear, the collection is as much for women as it is for men. Soar has managed to strike a perfect balance between menswear and womenswear or masculine and feminine. Both sexes are happy and well dressed as they nod along to Soar's tune. The focus is on making each piece desirable in its own right, regardless of gender. It was a pleasure to examine them up close as I walked around the presentation of faceless mannequins clad in the designer's signature mix of tailoring and sportswear...

For Him, Soar is interested in the point where tailoring and sportswear meet. The apex of good menswear. Here, he reveals Velcro waistband tuxedo pants, the zip hood duffle coat (a collaboration with noted London tailor, Joe Allen), the neoprene Harrington jacket and the striped, coated cotton dress shirts. Knitwear is either heavy with zips or latex coated. There are tailored ski panes and lacquered wools. However,the real highlight is the topcoat and its mix of heavy melton with bonded cotton sleeves. For She, Soar has kept the masculine mood of the collection. Each piece has started in menswear and delicately evolved. In fact, as I walked through the presentation, many of the style looked almost identical to the equivalent men's garments; the topcoats, jackets, trousers and knits. However, great care has been taken to ensure a fit that is flattering, chic, feminine.

The most obvious thread that tightly bonds this collection is the use of the classic fabrics of menswear which are used throughout. Soar is a long time collector of vintage military and has always loved the density, texture and strength of the wools used in British Army Dress uniforms. When he found out that Hainsworth was the company that produces many of these wold, he just had to work with them. In fact, Hainsworth is a specialist textile company that has been an unrivaled market leader for over two hundred and twenty five years, kitting out the Royal Guards uniform to the plush interiors at Windsor Castle. In choosing a palette of RAF blue-grey, Rifle Green and Khaki, Soar managed to paint a collection that felt simultaneously modern and classic. While, bonded and coated cottons, neoprenes, spun Fuji silk, double crepes and Japanese Plange leather carry on Soar's design signature mix of minimalism, sportswear, tailoring and unusual fabrications.

In light of the packed presentation space I was only able to shoot a few close ups but thankfully, Soar sent through his recently shot look book which I'm pleased to share with you...

Lookbook images supplied by Tim Soar. Styling by Jodie Barnes.

Over the last few seasons, we have come to Tim Soar's collections as offering his take on the greatest hits of menswear. It is not about the exploration of a unique silhouette for the season and then moving on but rather, it concentrates on taking different elements and putting them together in a way that is a coherent whole while exploring a number of different references. In an interview with us last season, he declared that "you don't have to reinvent the wheel, especially not with menswear. The wheel exists, we just have to polish the spokes." Now, women can finally ride Tim Soar's well polished bicycle of menswear.

Braille AW11 Our Damn Hands

Braille burst on to the scene at Vauxhall Fashion Scout back in February of last year and they've since gone from strength to strength and deservedly so. The London based design duo, Benjamin Vorono and Samuel Kientsch, are able to design garments that can effortlessly slide in to any man's wardrobe.  In just twelve months, the pair have carved a covetable reputation for creating reimagined wardrobe staples that have a strong but delicate touch. The discovery of the label was one of the real blogging highlights of the year and we've kept a close eye on their development ever since. To mark the launch of their third collection, Our Damn Hands, we catch up with one half of the design duo to learn more about the collection before excitedly sharing a preview of their video look.

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SS: What was the initial starting point for the collection?
Samuel Kientsch: We were initially drawn to imagery from Detroit and New Orleans, a certain beauty in the decomposition of these historically important cities. In our minds these places are ripe for entrepreneurialism, this enthusiasm is at the heart of Our Damn Hands.

SS: During Fashion 156's insightful Designer Track series I read that you took inspiration from a road trip around the UK. How did the British countryside inspire the collection?
Samuel Kientsch: Nature offers a real sense of freedom it allows the creativity that we have been kicking around in the city to blossom and come to life. After getting out of town it becomes much easier to understand the collection we've have been dreaming about. In more straightforward terms the colour palette, especially the celadon and slate are a direct reference to the environment we encountered on our walks.

SS: British Fabrics and manufacture are a fundamental facet of the label and I know that you've searched for the craftsmen to help make your designs a reality. What does Made in England mean to you?
Samuel Kientsch: We think it's unfortunate that manufacturing has been economically forced out of the United Kingdom. A factory that we are currently using is in real danger of going out of business and if this continues to happen 'Made in England' will only carry a greater premium. We don't champion 'Made in England' because we feel the quality is necessarily better but rather it is simply about supporting the community. There are enough designers in London and we feel the production side should be better served. Long-term opening our own factory is definitely a goal but only if the government is serious about creating jobs. Funding is desperately needed for small businesses of all kinds.

SS: The collection showcases a wonderful sense of texture. The fabric combinations in the outerwear are particularly stunning. Could you talk us through a few of your favourites?
Samuel Kientsch: The Reversible Bomber uses suede and wool, the suede is elegant and the wool more utilitarian, we used cording to add texture and to emphasize the masculine shape. The Duffle Coat has gotten the best reaction so far. When you pick it up you can sense from its weight that it is going to keep you nice and warm, we used leather binding as a bridge between the softness of the wool and the hardness of the fireman's clips.

SS: In only three seasons, you've managed to forge a clear design signature but how would you describe it?
Samuel Kientsch: We have always strived to have a real balance between strong and delicate in each individual garment. It's important that our clothes are inherently masculine but genteel details go a long way.

SS: What would you like to see Braille achieve in 2011?
Samuel Kientsch: This year is all about stabilising our business, it was really great to begin selling right at the start but it was also overwhelming at times. Our Damn Hands is a direct reference to the fact that this collection was completed up to the sampling stage with minimal assistance from interns or pattern cutters. It was a great learning experience but definitely not how we will operate in the future. Come Spring/Summer 2012 we will be in a good position to start selling to the international boutiques we have had our eyes on since the beginning.

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As with the two previous collections, Our Damn Hands is driven by textile. Here, Braille once again showcase a heady mix of breathtaking fabrics. Textural highlights include a waxed belted silk poncho, a textured wool pocket overcoat and a suede reversible corded bomber. To help showcase the collection to the full, the duo set sent through their motion look book for your viewing pleasure...

Braille AW11 - Our Damn Hands - Motion Look Book from Samuel Kientsch on Vimeo.

Showroom Next Door For AW11

For the last three seasons my London Fashion Week has begun with an elongated visit to the ever fruitful, Touba Distrubution curated, Showroom Next Door. Why should AW11 be any different? So, before I was seduced by the charms of b Store's reimagined, My Own Private Idaho inspired functional menswear whilst nodding along to the sounds of Blood Music (more on that later), I explored the latest Showroom. Spread over two floors on Grosvenor Street, the space has once again became my dream walk-in wardrobe. 

The Showroom space exemplifies everything that I find exciting about menswear design in London; namely it's diversity and constant sense of sartorial evolution and revolution. This season is is no different. In fact, I'm pleased to say that it has managed to improve and grow further. Fode, Yuko and Trevor strive to showcase a diverse collection of international designers but above all seek to provide a platform for both established and exciting new British talents. The AW11 lineup reflect their hard work and passion. Casely-Hayford, Mr Hare, Mohsin Ali, Armando Cabral, H by Harris, Chauncey, Hannah Martin and Bunney read like a who's who of men's fashion. These are undoubtedly exciting times for menswear and I'm so pleased that there are platforms like the Showroom Next Door that help to showcase the obvious and abundant talent that call this capital of ours its home. Over the course of the coming week, whenever I have a spare moment, I will locate myself in these inspiring surroundings and speak with each of the designers in turn for more in depth posting. However, whilst the initial excitement bounces around inside of my enthused brain, I have to share my initial thoughts on the highlights of the season...

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Chauncey

Chauncey is a Brussels-based menswear label and combines the talents of designer Nathalie Bouhana and her photographer partner David Sdika. It is a relatively recent discovery for this blogger but it is a label that I've been hearing an awful lot of good things about so it is great to finally be able to marvel at it in person. Having previously designed knitwear for Hermès, Salvatore Ferragamo and Anne Valérie Hash, Nathalie certainly has an eye for luxury knits. Creative, minimalist but exclusive, Chauncey prides itself on European craftsmanship. Aside from the rich colour palette there is no eccentricity, just quality and modern design. Extreme precision and the highest quality yarns and manufacturers. An "elegant gentleman traveler" look with a slice of Belgian surrealism. These are knits that your skin longs to touch.

Unsurprisingly, I'm particularly fond of the polka dot number in grey.

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H by Harris

The H by Harris label heralds the new school in desirable contemporary accessories. Harris designs aptly uses the term 'luxury fatigues' to define his unique style. Regular readers will recall that the debut H by Harris collection comprised itself of two lines, the Q hand quilted nappa leather and the SH wax hide leather collection. Both left me wanting to sell an organ or turn to a life of crime just to have one hanging off his arm. Since then, Harris has slowly but surely added new styles to covet.

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Hannah Martin

With a prestigious Central St Martins design education and a handful of awards behind her, it should come as no surprise that Hannah Martin is shaking up the world of luxury jewellery as we know it. Her luxurious and decadent collections are described as ‘jewellery for men, that girlfriends will steal’ and if I had a piece in my possession I would certainly sleep with one eye open from fear of Susie pilfering it. The look is elegant yet decidedly rock n’ roll. Each time I see her well crafted designs I am utterly blown away. Every collection has a strong narrative and I cannot wait to speak with Hannah to hear all about the character behind the latest offering.

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Bunney

Andrew Bunney longed to create objects that look like something one may be used to yet recast in a new light with precious metals, becoming new, yet at the same time, familiar. Ultimately, Bunney was drawn to the idea of coming up with something everybody or anybody could wear...even nervous individuals like myself. For the last few seasons, he has been quietly navigating an elegant and refined men's jewellery offering that have grabbed my attention and left me experimenting. The Bunney offering has evolved from a single item - a large size silver pyramid stud which came in a set of three to something of a magpie's haven. For the latest season, the fruits of his search to create series of padlocks can finally be enjoyed. Inspired by the practice of Love Padlocking in Paris and beyond, Bunney sought the last bastions of British craftsmen to create his precious padlocks.  

A beautifully crafted lucky rabbit's foot. The ideal way to mark the year of the rabbit.

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Mr Hare

Oh Mr. Hare, how much we love you and your creations. The brand has been close to our hearts the moment we heard that our favourite shoeist was creating something out of his obsession. Since then, the brand has deservedly gone from strength to strength. His fine leather creations can now be found across the world in an expanding selection of much loved retail outlets, from Selfridges to Colette to Beams. In his continued quest to dominant the world of shoes, Mr Hare has unveiled his latest collection and there might be a few surprises. Given our affection to the brand, I will merely tease with a few looks before going in to great detail with the man himself very soon.

Beautiful boots, subtle branding (check out the four hares and a swan) and even a Vibram sole. Stunning stuff from our favourite shoeist.

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Casely-Hayford

Now in its sixth season Casely-Hayford is undeniably forging a new handwriting of modern English style and here they serve up a huge collection. The father and son design duo have created a signature style of relaxed masculine proportions and exquisite tailoring, all the while fused with an injection of the raw energy of London's dynamic culture that constantly inspires them. With each season, the design duo begin with the desire to capture, play and experiment with the duality of English Sartorialism and British Anarchy. In creating a new collection their driving motivation is to capture the feelings of an ever-changing environment and to communicate society's natural inclination to move forward. The clothes start from a traditional stand point, but rather than being nostalgic and whimsical, they choose to reflect the spirit of twenty first century gentleman - a character conscious of many reference points yet someone who chooses to distill his style into a concise statement. Things have moved on since the days of the Duke of Windsor, and although he is a great inspiration and a foundation for the brand, the modern sartorialist has a different appetite. Their requirements, desires, and practical needs are frequently drawn towards a synergy between the formal and athletic. For this collection, the duo include the requirement and need of protection and comfort against the elements. This sartorial cocktail runs throughout the outerwear, tailoring and accessories. There is always a narrative at the core of what they do, connecting each collection to the last and making foundations for the next. 

As always, the collection is designed in London and made in Japan. Fine English fabrics are combined with the signature House cut and Japanese artisan construction to create a unique design statement and commitment to enduring quality.

The fabric combination are always a delight. Each item is full of details. I could literally spend hours closely examining the contents of each rail.

With a collection taking up over three rails of Showroom space, Casely-Hayford now offer the complete wardrobe. But that is not enough. Now, we have some exciting news to share. The design duo are launching their first luxury sneaker for AW11. The house have created a new streamlined Hi silhouette on a unique last with a modern minimal aesthetic. The sneakers have been designed to compliment the relaxed masculine proportions of fine tailoring and jersey suiting that the brand has become renowned for. Premium grained leather and fine quality suede trim dominate the upper, set on a sole crafted from a unique vulcanised rubber that will undoubtedly become a defining feature of the signature Casely-Hayford Hanbury sneaker. These will be available in select stores from July 2011 but here's a sneak peek...

The Hanbury will no doubt cause a flutter or two.

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The Showroom Next Door is an inviting and vibrant place where fashion, art and craftsmanship collide and can be appreciated side by side. If you are in town and have a spare moment, please do drop in. However, do not despair if you can't it in yourself, over the course of the next week I will be enthusing over the highlights in detail. In the meantime, I'm off to bed and long to wake up with the Showroom as my wardrobe.

Forgotten Future AW11

Back in July last year, I discovered and rediscovered Richard Dawson's label Forgotten Future and have kept a close eye on its development ever since. His third collection, entitled Pony Youth features an eclectic mix of attention grabbing pattern and texture that makes this blogger want to reach out and touch. For AW11, Dawson has once again served up a heady cocktail of vintage detailing and sportswear styling. Here is a quiet preview of the collection before we get swallowed up by LFW and grow too weary of beautiful clothes...

For AW11, Dawson has once again served up a heady cocktail of vintage detailing and sportswear styling. Partly influenced by the work of photographer Perry Ogden, who in the 1990's documented the disappearing youth culture at Dublin's Horse Fairs, this collection pervades the Irish estate youths nonchalance throughout. A generational hand me down aesthetic runs through the collection to inspire a silhouette of over sized proportions. A particular highlight is the Fair Isle patterning that echoes the images captured by Ogden's lens. Here, it has been reinvented in printed, digital form and incorporates motifs and off beat colourways. Other influences continue the post war feelings introduced by the previous season, evolving the make-do-and-mend approach to much cherished and well worn garments. Pocket detailing from an uncovered pair of 1950's American scout trousers affords a casual work wear approach to the collections tailoring. Even more interestingly, darning, a somewhat forgotten homespun craft is reinterpreted as a casual play on embellishment. Worn areas of a favourite blazer are given a new lease of life, challenging the notion of disposable fashion to create a hand crafted feature which underlies Dawson's ever apparent celebration of the worn and loved....

Look book credits. 

Photography by David Poole. Model is Owen Trainor.

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Silhouette and proportional play are key to Forgotten Future's aesthetic along with a high degree of workmanship. This collection expresses an everyday sartorial nonchalance that I just love. Once again, Dawson has created a collection of wardrobe staples that transcend trend by originality and individualism.

Discovering Mohsin Ali in time for LFW

Since its inception two years ago, the Touba Distribution curated Showroom Next Door has allowed me the opportunity to inspect and fantasise over a few of my favourite brands while introducing me to a few new ones along the way. For the last few seasons, the Showroom has been one of the real highlights of fashion month, an interesting and vibrant place where fashion, art and craftsmanship collide and can be appreciated side by side. Fode, Yuko and Trevor strive to showcase a diverse collection of international designers but above all seek to provide a platform for both established and exciting new British talents. With London Fashion week fast approaching, the trio have now released their full list of participating brands. Now, I have to warn you in advance that the list comes with a health warning, heavy breathy and heart palpitations will be a common side effect. Those of you with weak hearts, please look away now... Casely-Hayford, Sable Clutch, Mr Hare, Armando Cabral, H by Harris, Chauncey, Hannah Martin and Bunney will all present their latest collections and collaborations. To further enhance your heart beat, I would like to share an exclusive Showroom Next Door find in Mohsin Ali.

Since graduating from the London College of Fashion with a First Class honours degree in 1999, the design talent has carved a career that has seen him design and develop product for a variety of brands across the globe. He might have spent the last decade under the radar, learning his trade and developing his aesthetic but now is Mohsin Ali's time to step in to the spotlight. During one of my many visits to the Showroom next week, I will no doubt catch up with this exciting discovery but before then, I could not resist sharing his AW11 look book with you.... 

Ali is a designer who believes in a clean aesthetic and that appliance should be for a reason. Design should be questioned and challenged at all times and only then can you produce and create something truly special. His eponymous label lives by three main rules; form, fabric and function. He has a real love for both traditional and technical fabrics mixing both in his collections as well as his fascination with cut and silhouette, His approach is simple but effective, ‘To the naked eye a product can be simple only when you analyse and look closely do you see the really beauty’. I'm certain that we will be hearing the name Mohsin Ali a great deal in the future.

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