Sunday, January 3, 2010

Carola Euler AW09: An astronaut's day off

Back in March I revealed that I had given in to the temptations of a private buying event for Omar Kashoura and Carola Euler. Now the final few pieces have been delivered and I could not be happier with my buys. As the evening of the event fell on payday (and I had enjoyed the odd glass of wine with the designers) I chose to give my debit card something of a battering. Despite the consumer bravado afforded by the drink I did buy wisely and I was so pleased that my Carola Euler purchases arrived just in time for the New Year...

Two of my favourite looks from Carola Euler's AW09 Look Book

Since graduating from CSM in 2005, Euler has been justifiably talked up as one of the bright talents of menswear design and I have to confess to being a little perplexed as to why she is not a more dominant force in the industry. However, in an article for Ponystep, Dean Mayo Davies remarks that "Carola Euler is the softly-spoken menswear designer that operates on her own plain" who follows "her own path unflinchingly to make pieces with humour and integrity." Followers of Carola Euler like myself, would not have it any other way.

An astronaut's day off...Carola Euler's AW09 Look Book.

For AW09 the Berlin based designer returned with more of her sculptural minimalism. Her starting point for the collection was a response to the question, 'What would an astronaut wear on his day off in a spaceship." As a wee nipper it was never my dream to float around space, I preferred to imagine myself scoring the winning goal for Arsenal in the FA Cup final against Manchester United at the Wembley Staduim of my youth (oh it will never come to pass now...it just wouldn't be the same at the new stadium) but having mostly grown up, the idea of an off duty astronaut appeals. Regardless of its thought provoking inspiration, the real beauty of the collection in the details. As always with Euler, not all is apparent at first sight. It looks simple but you look again and you discover the details. Sharp pleats, panelled trousers, armour shoulder detailing, her signature cut away bib, biker sleeves, oversized shirts and jerseys with pyjama tails to name just a few.

Grey trench and white shirt by Carola Euler worn with drop crotch trousers bought in Hong Kong and Stingray Orwell's by Mr. Hare.

I have been on the hunt for a grey trench coat for the the best part of a year now but as soon as I encountered this one, the search was called off. Ever since it was developed as an alternative to the heavy serge greatcoats worn by soldiers in the First World War, the trench coat has been a popular wardrobe staple. Regardless of who invented it (Burberry and Aquascutum both claim to have done just that) the trench coat has fascinated designers ever since and there are so many versions to salivate over. Euler described this trench as the 'bridal piece' of her collection and it undoubtedly has a certain 'wow factor' to it...made all the more special because it is the only one made.

A close up on the shirt in front a bright January afternoon in London.

If the trench coat is a popular wardrobe staple, the white shirt is something of a classic. Here, Euler has masterfully updated this seemingly simple piece with sculptural, armour like details. I have amassed a collection of white shirts in recent years because I always find that when I put on a bright white, crisp cotton shirt I feel infinitely better. This is now my new favourite shirt.

White shirt by Carola Euler, worn with drop crotch trousers bought in Hong Kong and Stingray Orwell's by Mr. Hare.

Now, given that the pieces were ordered at the end of March, there was a moment when I thought that my order would never arrive. However, in spite of production issues (oh the difficult unknown life of a designer), the lovely Euler gave me a late Christmas present to savour and included a little something extra for the late delivery...a super soft luxurious jersey which I've found difficult to take off all weekend.

Super soft jersey by Carola Euler, black leather gloves from M&S, trousers by Unconditional and patent boots by Lanvin.

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