Yesterday was a whole lot of fun...tiring but fun. There was just so much to take in (I think I turned on to auto pilot more than once whilst I was tweeting during the shows) and I was far from disappointed from what I saw. With the expansion of the menswear shows, the expectation levels were high but I think the chosen few designers really excelled themselves. There was something for everyone, a healthy balance between designers who created highly wearable collections and those who pushed ideas to their limits. I hope you enjoyed reading my thoughts over on the
Fashion156 blog because I was typing those when I was both excited and weary eyed. This will be the first of many posts documenting my thoughts and experiences (I still badly need to go through my photographs)...but until then, please see my highlights.
After being given her solo show, all eyes were on
Carolyn Massey hungry for something special, she did not disappoint. Whilst creating one of the most wearable collections on offer all week she also threw in enough excitement and interest to leave me almost breathless (hence the slowdown on twitter during this show). Carolyn is undeniably a designer who really cares about the history of menswear and fabric research which she combined perfectly here to create timeless pieces which would add so much to any man's wardrobe (but certainly mine)!
Through his interpretation of old world masculinity
J.W Anderson dragged us into a brave new world. As well as creating imaginary uniforms for old voyages Anderson played with traditional formal dress with his printed pencil cotton suit which posed a faux tuxedo and the tringular body hopsack tweed coat which was cut as a cape.
James Long surprised me most by his varied collection. In recent seasons Long has become one of the most exciting designers showing at LFW but this collection saw the designer take a giant leap forward. As the first few looks were unveiled I began to settle in a state of awe at the sight of neutral toned nomadic warriors dressed in some truly beautiful knits parade down the runway but then James Long slapped me in the face with a burst of claret which raised my state of awe to some truly dangerous levels.
Midway through the afternoon I escaped the tents and found time to grab a drink and a breather at the Fashion East/MAN House. As well quenching my physical thirst I quenched my ever present thirst to be challenged and to marvel at exciting clothing. In the basement of the house,
Jaiden rVa James presented a glimpse into a rabble collection of the insane, institutionalised for their various acts of perversion and clothed in straight jackets and bondage trousers to floral printed kilts and shirts. Exposed zips played a significant part in a number of key looks which only heightened the exploration in to the darkest facets of sexual desire. By delving into a collection of damaged minds and uncovering some dark secrets along the way they have created one of the highlights of LFW. I for one would love to see more men experiment with such a playful exploration of masculinity, I'm certainly attracted to their kilts and floral print shirts which were contrasted with pleated panels which played with texture and colour.
Katie Eary was in the dining room of the House and created the most sinister tea party imaginable as she went all out in her biggest commission to date. She literally nailed her love of all things macabre to the walls in the form of abattoir-esque meat hooks and farmer's tools which helped display her collection which contained gold pig skins, human sized dutch caps, knitwear looking crystal and gaffa tape trousers and fur pieces. Many pictures of both of these collections will be posted in the next few days.
In summary, I was surprised by the extent and consistency of leaving impressed show after show, so much so that I craved a lie down after a second visit to the MAN house on Cromwell Road. Lets hope that next season at LFW menswear is given an even bigger platform to showcase the talented designers out there because this afternoon although leaving me tired, left me wanting more.
Part two of my look inside Fashion East's MAN house takes in Katie Eary's sinister pig tea party. The scene inside this room made me feel as though I had been transported in to a beautifully macabre editorial...I had made it inside the pages of Another Man. Inspired by Orwell's Animal Farm this setting offers a look at the pigs after having taken over the farmhouse.
I'm not the biggest Dr Martens fan but these gold toe capped boots were really something.
